Agatha Christie once said: ‘Trains are wonderful.’ Certainly, they were helpful to her, providing the inspiration for Murder On The Orient Express.
She knew all about the mystique of travelling on an overnight train, which is the setting for the BBC’s Nightsleeper drama, specifically on a chaotic, madcap Glasgow to London trip.
But you don’t have to experience similar mishaps. Just bed down in one place and wake up in another.
Here’s how to enjoy some of Europe’s top routes.
CZECH IT OUT: BRUSSELS TO PRAGUE
The European Sleeper runs thrice-weekly trains between Brussels (pictured) and Prague
Tom says: ‘The operator’s motto is “The Good Night Train” and the emphasis is on comfort with beds with duvets and quality linen.’ Above is one of the train’s ‘cheaper couchettes’
European Sleeper is a Belgian-Dutch co-operative launched last year, now operating thrice-weekly trains between Brussels and Prague, calling at Antwerp, Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Berlin and Dresden. The operator’s motto is ‘The Good Night Train’ and the emphasis is on comfort with beds with duvets and quality linen. You’re given a bottle of water, and continental breakfast with a hot drink. There are also sinks, but toilets are along the hall.
Carriages are sleek, made of fluted stainless steel; originally from the US in the 1950s. Compartments with three-tier bunks can be booked privately for 1-3 people, or there are cheaper couchettes fitting 5-6. Catch a London-Brussels Eurostar for the onwards journey. Or join at Rotterdam, having taken a ferry to the Hook of Holland.
Dining car: Yes, but not on all services. Three-course meal such as pumpkin soup, schnitzel, and cheesecake £27. Reservations required.
Best thing: Romantic vintage carriages.
Timings: Departs Brussels 7.22pm, arrives Prague 10.56am: 15 hours and 34 minutes, covering about 630 miles.
How to do it: Sleeper compartment for two from £350; or £132pp sharing a six-berth couchette (europeansleeper.eu).
CALEDONIAN SLEEPER: LONDON TO SCOTLAND
Take in fine highland scenery on the Caledonian Sleeper train, which runs between London and Scotland
One-way fares are from £310 for two in a ‘Classic’ compartment or £350 for two in a ‘Club’ compartment with a bunk
This runs between London Euston and Fort William, Inverness, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen (with other stops).
One-way fares are from £310 for two in a ‘Classic’ compartment or £350 for two in a ‘Club’ compartment with a bunk (from £425 for two for a compartment with a double bed).
Trains operate daily in each direction, leaving between 7.50pm and 11.45pm depending on route, arriving between 7.07am and 9.57am. There’s fine highland scenery (sleeper.scot).
ROLL INTO ROMANIA: BUDAPEST TO BUCHAREST
The Carpathian Mountains (above) are a highlight on the Ister sleeper train between Budapest and Bucharest
For an intriguing ride from Hungary’s capital to Romania’s capital, hop on board the Ister sleeper train. ‘Ister’ is Roman for Danube, and this journey travels in its direction towards the Black Sea.
Budapest Keleti station has an ornate façade featuring a prominent statue of our railway pioneer, George Stephenson. On board the Caile Ferate Romane trains do not expect anything too fancy: compartments are poky with faux wood panelling and narrow beds with duvets. A sink is hidden beneath a fold-up table.
The highlight is admiring the scenery of the Carpathian Mountains between Brasov and Bucharest, according to railway guru Mark Smith of Seat61.com.
Dining car: None. However, there’s a sandwich kiosk/bar offering sandwiches (£1.70), wine (£2.50), or beer (£2.90).
Timings: Departs Budapest 7.10pm, arrives in Bucharest 11.30am: 11 hours and 20 minutes, covering about 505 miles.
How to do it: Sleeper compartment for two from £146, or £40 sharing a six-berth couchette (bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro); put in ‘Bucuresti’ for Bucharest.
NORWEGIAN NIGHTS: TRONDHEIM TO BODO
For an enjoyable journey at any time of the year, take the SJ Norge night train between Norway’s Trondheim (pictured) and Bodo
This is an especially good summer ride when it’s light into the early hours of the morning and you can watch Norwegian fjords and mountains pass by. But the journey is enjoyable at any time of year.
A daily sleeper is operated by SJ Norge, with standard seats, ‘Premium Plus rest seats’ (with more recline) and sleeper compartments. The latter come with two single beds with good quality linen, water bottles and sinks; toilets are down the hall. You also get free coffee/tea.
Trondheim is an elegant city by a fjord, while Bodo is a smaller town with a thriving art scene. Both are great for the Northern Lights.
Dining car: Yes, a café serves light meals such as salmon potato salad (£13) or pizzas (£12). But watch out: wine is £10, a beer £9 by the glass.
Timings: Departs Trondheim 11.05pm, arrives in Bodo 9.05am: ten hours, covering about 435 miles.
How to do it: Sleeper compartments from £144, Premium Plus from £82, standard from £60 (sj.no).
NIGHT RIVIERA: LONDON TO CORNWALL
‘The Night Riviera is a brilliant way to roll into Cornwall with stops at Liskeard, Par, St Austell, Truro and St Erth (for St Ives),’ says Tom of the GWR service, pictured above
Light breakfasts are included in the price of a Night Riviera compartment (left), which Tom says ‘come with beds with good linen’. The train also boasts a lounge car with snacks and drinks (right)
Departing Paddington at 10.30pm arriving at 7.54am in Penzance – or 9.15pm or 9.45pm in the opposite direction, arriving at 6.45am – the Night Riviera is a brilliant way to roll into Cornwall with stops at Liskeard, Par, St Austell, Truro and St Erth (for St Ives).
Light breakfasts (bacon roll or cereal) are included with compartments, which come with beds with good linen. There’s also a lounge car with snacks and drinks. Station lounge use is included. Compartments from £166 for two (gwr.com).
THE ITALIAN JOB: MILAN TO SICILY
Tom comments: ‘The sleeper journey from Milan to Palermo is known as the Intercity Notte.’ Above – Palermo
You might wonder how a train crosses the Strait of Messina from mainland Italy to Sicily. The answer is: by train ferry.
This sleeper journey from Milan to Palermo (though a shorter version is possible from Rome) is known as the Intercity Notte, with compartments for 1-3 passengers, plus couchettes for up to six. The ‘Superior’ compartments have tiny ensuite rooms, while the cheaper ‘Relax’ compartments just have sinks. A continental breakfast plus a hot drink is served. Expect great coastal scenery.
Dining car: None. But there’s a refreshment trolley and food vending machines.
Timings: Departs Milan 8.10pm, arrives Palermo 4.55pm: 20 hours and 45 minutes, covering about 970 miles.
How to do it: ‘Relax’ sleeper compartments for two from £215; couchettes from £60pp (trenitalia.com).
NIGHTJET EXPRESS: VIENNA TO VENICE
All aboard: The Nightjet train takes you overnight to Vienna and Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Berlin
Sleeper compartments, as pictured here, offer ‘maximum cosiness’, says Austrian Federal Railways (OBB)
LEFT: Travellers can purchase drinks and snacks on Nightjet trains. RIGHT: A private bathroom on the Nightjet train
Austrian Federal Railways (OBB) has stolen a march on other national rail operators in Europe by investing heavily in a fleet of Nightjet sleepers. You can travel between Vienna and Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Berlin – among other routes – though a popular ‘classic’ is between the two V’s: Vienna and Venice.
Sleeper compartments offer ‘maximum cosiness’, says OBB. You are given a complimentary glass of sparkling wine on arrival, and breakfast with hot drinks and a selection of hams and cheeses. This is a superb way to cross the Alps into Italy.
Dining car: Yes, and food can be ordered. Paprika chicken (£11), glass of wine (£3), beer (£3).
Timings: Departs Vienna 9.39pm, arrives Venice 8.34am: ten hours and 55 minutes, covering about 350 miles.
How to do it: Sleeper from £300 for two; or couchette from £100pp (oebb.at).