When Henry VIII transformed Leeds Castle into a Tudor palace, little could he have imagined that it would become an attraction with half a million annual visitors and a cafe serving high teas with smoked salmon sandwiches and prosecco.
But it has.
Tourists flock to see the love nest Henry renovated in 1519 for his first wife Catherine of Aragon, below, on the site of a Norman stronghold.
Prior to his rule, the fortress had been mainly known as a home (willingly or otherwise) to a succession of queens.
The first, Eleanor of Castile from 1278, installed a medieval writing room for copying manuscripts.
Laura Sharman visits Leeds Castle, the love nest Henry VIII renovated in 1519 for his first wife, Catherine of Aragon
Leeds Castle has become an attraction with half a million annual visitors
Prior to Henry’s rule, the fortress had been mainly known as a home (willingly or otherwise) to a succession of queens
Meanwhile, Queen Joan of Navarre was imprisoned there for witchcraft in 1419.
Its last female owner in the 1920s, Lady Baillie, was renowned for throwing lavish parties for politicians, socialites and Hollywood stars, with it called ‘the perfect place in which to spend a weekend’.
Almost a century later, much the same can be said.
Entering the dining room to the sound of swing music, it’s easy to imagine Charlie Chaplin, one of Lady Baillie’s guests, standing by a tower of champagne glasses – just like the one in the window today that aims to capture the essence of that heady period.
The castle, set in rolling Kentish countryside (the M20 cutting through not too far away), is flanked by two pleasant villages listed in the Domesday Book.
The closest is tiny Broomfield, home to two fine Tudor houses, while the highlight of delightful Hollingbourne – just to the north – is All Saints Church, dating from the 14th Century.
This contains a superb 17th Century embroidery depicting fruit trees and cherubs.
For lunch, look no further than the Black Horse Inn in the village of Thurnham, just to the north of Hollingbourne.
Laura stays at a lakeside lodge within the grounds of Leeds Castle
Enjoying the view from an outdoor bath at her lodge, pictured, Laura wonders ‘what Henry VIII would make of it all’
Queen Joan of Navarre was imprisoned at Leeds Castle for witchcraft in 1419. Above is the castle’s maze
Laura recommends stopping for lunch at the Black Horse Inn, pictured, in nearby Thurnham village
This atmospheric 18th century pub, which also has rooms, serves first-rate lamb roasts on Sundays.
The countryside is criss-crossed with excellent hiking trails, one of which follows the Pilgrims Way through the North Downs.
We choose a 90-minute loop past oast houses and a vineyard.
Back at our lakeside lodge, within the grounds of Leeds Castle, we enjoy views of the lake from our outdoor bath – and keep wondering what Henry VIII would make of it all.