Before you jet off to Turkey for a well-earned holiday, here’s food for thought – you’ve been eating out in the exotic country all wrong.
How? You’ve been eating from a la carte menus, giving fast-food doner kebab outlets your custom and dining at restaurants where the staff are all too young.
The head chefs of three of London‘s top Turkish restaurants claim that these habits, among others, mean you haven’t been enjoying an authentic culinary experience in Turkey.
But worry not, because here Ilknur Celik, head chef at Kaso at One Hundred Shoreditch; Onur Nalci, head chef at Liberty Hotels; and Kemal Demirasal, head chef at The Counter in Notting Hill and Soho; reveal how to eat in Turkey like a local.
INAUTHENTIC DISHES TO AVOID
According to Onur, there are a ‘few [dishes] tourists might perceive as authentic but are not’, adding that they’re ‘usually created for touristic purposes and often do not reflect authentic Turkish culinary traditions’.
The chef reveals that examples include ‘ice cream sold by vendors in Ottoman-style clothing, oily dishes marketed as “palace cuisine” and pizzas and lahmacun [baked flatbread] referred to as Turkish pizza’.
Onur also puts ‘colourful drinks sold as “Ottoman sherbet”, bread with “evil-eye beads and decorative shapes” and overly-flashy kumpir [stuffed baked potatoes]’ on the list of dishes tourists should steer clear of.
Although one of Turkey’s most traditional desserts is baklava (a pastry), if the one you’re about to eat is too thick, it’s very likely to be ‘inauthentic’, warns Ilknur.
Chefs from three of London’s top Turkish restaurants have shared the dos and don’ts of eating out in Turkey with MailOnline Travel. Onur Nalci, head chef at Liberty Hotels, warns that ‘ice cream sold by vendors in Ottoman-style clothing’, like in the picture above, is inauthentic (file image)
LEFT: Ilknur Celik, head chef at Kaso at One Hundred Shoreditch. RIGHT: Kemal Demirasal, head chef at The Counter in Notting Hill and Soho
She explains: ‘The dough should not tear, but it should be so thin that if you put a newspaper behind it, the writing can be read.
‘Pure butter is used instead of regular butter to make baklava. This golden yellow, clear butter is also much healthier.’
Ilknur adds that overly-sweet Turkish delight is also a no-no.
She says: ‘Many places sell sweetened or low-quality variations. You can see if the Turkish delight is fresh by pressing it with your finger. If it returns to its original shape after pressing, it means it is fresh.
‘It should also dissolve easily in the mouth after a few bites and should not resist the teeth.’
SIGNS OF A TOURIST TRAP RESTAURANT
According to the three chefs, there are multiple ways to spot an inauthentic, tourist trap restaurant, with Kemal saying a big red flag is an a la carte menu – especially one with the option of meat or seafood.
He explains: ‘A la carte restaurants are not authentic in our tradition. It’s an adoption of Western culture in the past two decades.
‘We also don’t have the common practice of serving seafood and meat at the same restaurant. We either do fish, or kebab or kofteci [meatballs], we don’t blend them in one place.’
‘Overly-flashy kumpir’ (stuffed baked potatoes), as pictured above, could be inauthentic, says Onur
Onur Nalci, head chef at Liberty Hotels
Also, kebab variations in fast-food settings ‘may not reflect authentic prep and flavours, especially doner kebab’, says Ilknur.
However, the clearest sign of inauthenticity, the three chefs agree, is to look at the way the restaurant advertises itself, with tourists warned to beware anywhere with A-boards (advertising boards) outside or lofty claims about the food.
‘A-boards are a tourist restaurant trap in Turkey and not a common practice for authentic restaurants,’ explains Kemal.
Ilknur adds: ‘Be cautious of places offering flashy “Turkish nights” at high prices. Authentic dining is about the food, not the entertainment.’
Onur agrees, remarking: ‘Beware of exaggerated advertising, such as the “World’s best Donor” or “A flavour straight from the Ottomans”.
‘Overly-touristic decorations are often designed just to attract attention.’
SIGNS OF AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT
Pictured is an ‘esnfar lokantasi’, a tradesmen restaurant. Kemal says an authentic one will serve ‘cooked daily stews, soups and rice on the counter presented in copper and clay pots’
Kemal says that an authentic street food stall will only be selling ‘one product’ such as kokorec (skewered offal), as pictured above
Turkish eateries include ‘esnaf lokantasis’ (tradesmen restaurants), kebab shops, street food stalls, and seafood restaurants – and there are many different ways to tell if each of them are authentic.
For small, family-run restaurants that, Onur says, are ‘likely to have the best flavours’, it’s all about noting the ages of the staff.
Kemal says that traditionally, restaurants in Turkey have ‘old and young’ staff members working together to ‘bridge the heritage’ – a system known as ‘Usta and Cirak’ (Master and Apprentice).
He adds that the ‘maestro’ (older member of staff) will usually be in the kitchen, or working as the cashier ‘to monitor the restaurant if they’re too old to run the action’.
Wherever you go, Ilknur and Kemal both advise checking how the restaurant cooks and serves its food.
According to Kemal, an esnaf lokantasi will serve ‘cooked daily stews, soups and rice on the counter presented in copper and clay pots’, and there should be no leftovers at the end of the day, as all the food is ‘distributed among staff and people in need’.
Meanwhile, Kemal says ‘kebabs should be prepped and cooked to order’ in kebab shops.
He adds: ‘The head chef – “Usta”, the maestro – should be cooking kebabs, and the second-in-charge chef – “Cirak” or “Kalfa”, the apprentice – should be chopping the Tablaci salad [Turkish salad] simultaneously.’
An authentic fish restaurant in Turkey should always be by the sea, like the one pictured, says Kemal
Ilknur advises: ‘Look for places that use traditional cooking methods, such as wood-fired ovens and open grills, and feature local ingredients on the menu.’
Kemal adds: ‘If you really want authentic food, look for places serving food on the counter display. Look for fish restaurants showcasing their mezzes and seafood in an open display.’
These fish restaurants, says Kemal, should always be by the sea, if you want authenticity.
He explains: ‘For us, the seafood and fish should be consumed by the seaside, not in plazas or in a fancy setting. Fish should be consumed daily and close to the source.’
And when it comes to street food, a good stand will only be selling ‘one product’, says Kemal, recommending kokorec (skewered offal).
Of course, if you’re really stuck, you could just ask locals for their recommendations, as Onur and Ilknur both suggest doing.
Kemal adds that a restaurant with ‘good food’ in Turkey will also often be ‘filled with locals at early lunchtime’.
DISHES YOU MUST TRY
Ilknur recommends trying ‘midye dolma’ (pictured above), which she describes as a ‘popular street food’ consisting of ‘mussels stuffed with aromatic rice pilaf’
Ilknur recommends trying a Turkish breakfast, like the one pictured, saying it’s ‘more than just a meal, it’s a social experience’
Turkish breakfast – ‘More than just a meal, Turkish breakfast (kahvalti) is a social experience,’ says Ilknur. ‘Each region has its own variations, often featuring dishes like Menemen [scrambled eggs with tomato and spices], artisanal bread, pastries, börek [filled pastry], a selection of cheeses, and healthy options.’
Cag kebab – ‘Cooked over a wood fire on a horizontal rotisserie, this kebab is a true taste of Turkish grilling tradition,’ says Ilknur.
Balik Ekmek (fish sandwich) – ‘A Turkish classic, this dish features freshly caught, grilled fish from the Marmara Sea, served directly from boats along the shore,’ says Ilknur.
Kokorec – ‘Often enjoyed as a late-night meal, kokorec consists of skewered offal wrapped in sheep or goat intestines, spiced, and served inside a bread loaf,’ says Ilknur.
Midye Dolma – ‘A popular street food, these mussels are stuffed with aromatic rice pilaf, offering a burst of flavour in every bite,’ says Ilknur.