So, what’s it like staying at a Naturist campsite?
I’m just back from ten days at CHM Montalivet on the Atlantic coast of South West France, about an hour and a half drive from Bordeaux in the Medoc region.
‘CHM’ stands for ‘Centre Hélio-Marin’, which translates roughly as ‘sun-sea centre’. We would possibly say ‘Seaside Resort’, but here (thankfully), there are no Kiss-Me-Quick hats or sticks of rock.
It’s a sprawling 200-hectare campsite littered with sturdy maritime pine and black locust trees, with over 3,000 accommodations, including various sizes and types of chalets and a ton of sunny or shady pitches for those that bring a tent or camper van.
At the western end, about a kilometre from the entrance, lies a long, sandy beach and in between there is just about everything you could want for a perfect holiday.
Andrew Welch, a spokesman for British Naturism, took a holiday at CHM Montalivet (above) on the Atlantic coast of South West France
Andrew, above, spent 10 days at CHM Montalivet
The only thing that makes it stand out from any other holiday resort or campsite anywhere in the world is that you will see naked people. Lots of them. Buying a baguette, a bag of apples or a bottle of wine from the well-stocked ‘Spar’ shop, walking or cycling around enjoying the chilled atmosphere, drinking café au lait at one of the patisseries, enjoying a glass of wine on a terrace, savouring an evening meal with friends at one of the many restaurants, dancing to live music in one of the bars, swimming in one of the pools or soaking up the sun on that marvellous, uncrowded beach.
In the height of the summer, 18,000 people can be found on site each day. Over 2,000 people of all nationalities live here too, though the French rules state that it cannot be their main residence.
Clothes are not required – anywhere.
The site has existed for over 70 years and the spirit and values of those pioneering days are still very much part of the agenda, especially when it comes to encouraging guests to forget about what might be in their wardrobe.
A kilometre from the entrance, explains Andrew, lies a long, sandy beach (above)
A sign at the nearby beach asking visitors to respect nudity
Even some of the staff are nude, or partially so, even whilst working.
Complete nudity is mandatory in the majority of common areas when weather permits. But in practice, for various reasons, you’ll not find everyone undressed 24/7.
Many people enjoy dressing up for dinner, for example.
If you’re here, you might be one of the naked people – don’t flinch. It’s the easiest thing to join in, even if you’ve never done it before.
Countless newcomers decide to bin the bikini or trash the trunks forever, having had the experience.
It’s often reported that a mere 15 minutes is all it takes to forget that you are nude and amongst people also in the buff. I’d go further and suggest that the nudity becomes so commonplace that it’s invisible.
And it’s far from packed.
There is so much space and so much to do that people are spread out. Both pools have plenty of sunbeds and the sunbathing area at the waterpark – with its slides and rocky landscaping – takes up more room than the circular pool.
I hired a bike, for about £30 for the week, and spent lots of time wending my way around the many footpaths that criss-cross the site, in between houses and chalets; alongside hedges and flower borders; amongst the trees in the camping areas; up to the beach for a lazy hour on the sand followed by an ocean swim; to a bar for a drink alone or with newly-made friends; sunbathing by, or dipping in, the pools; checking out which restaurant I might choose for that evening; or visiting one of the shops to stock up on cheese, wine and suntan lotion.
‘Countless newcomers decide to bin the bikini or trash the trunks forever,’ writes Andrew. Above – one of the CHM Montalivet chalets
Bliss – and my Apple watch confirmed that it was doing me good in more physical ways as well.
It’s hard to tear yourself away, but there is plenty to do and see off-site.
The small beachfront town of Montalivet is only minutes away by car. In fact, in the summer months, there is a gate at CHM that leads holidaymakers (dressed for the occasion, natch) onto a path through thick woodland to the town.
Is there anything as vibrant and colourful as a French street market?
This one is open every day, and includes a covered section that contains a mouth-watering array of cheeses of every shape and hue; piles of fruits and vegetables including scarlet, smooth-skinned tomatoes, bunches of purple garlic and fat oranges; artfully arranged fish and seafood – freshly caught and whole, beady eyes staring, or prepped for cooking; mounds of crusty bread with slender baguettes displayed vertically; and a meat counter that would shame Harrods.
Outside in the sunshine there was more.
I happily toured a huddle of stalls where rail upon rail of clothes, paintings, hats, bags, bric-a-brac, baskets full of gnarled, grey-shelled oysters, household goods, souvenirs, bowls of shiny, wet olives, and even more cheeses all contentedly rubbed shoulders with each other.
A sample of Ossau-Iraty, a sheep’s milk cheese, was proffered by a persuasive stall-holder and making a spontaneous post-taste purchase was an easy decision to make.
Stopping for lunch here was a no-brainer. I sat with a view of the waves crashing on to the sandy beach at ‘O Dunes de Monta’ while working my way through a large plate of charcuterie, which on reflection was probably meant for two. A glass of vin blanc made it go down easily.
‘At night, the only sound is the crash of the waves on the beach,’ says Andrew
I returned to my modern cabin with large deck, kitchen, shower room and loo. The site also has sparkling clean showers, toilet blocks and facilities for campers to wash dishes. There’s also a laundrette. And a hairdressers. You can choose from well over 10 eateries/bars with menus ranging from burgers, pizza, crèpes and pastries to something a lot more haute cuisine.
For those that want to put more effort into their evening meal, a butcher and a plats cuisines outlet with meals all ready to take home and cook always have queues of bare bums making their selection.
An open-air cinema, a full entertainment programme and sports coming out of your ears, complete the picture.
It’s situated in one of the world’s greatest wine regions and it would be wrong not to take a tour of a vineyard – or more than one if you have the time.
The choice in the Médoc is vast.
I booked into one at the ‘Grand Cru’ Chateau Haut-Bages Libéral just outside Paulliac.
Having given myself the time for a leisurely one-hour drive in order to take in the vine-filled scenery – I spotted I would be passing the famous Chateau Lafite – it rained heavily and progress was slow. Even slower when a coach, horse-box and (two) tractors were in front of me.
I burst through the door of the Chateau reception full of profuse apologies (in my best French) and an acknowledgement that I’d probably missed the tour, only to find I was the only guest.
Léa was the perfect guide, an intern soon to finish her masters before heading off to New Zealand to immerse herself in the world of wine-making and sales.
Knowledgeable, enthusiastic and with excellent English, we inspected vines dripping with purple fruits a couple of weeks away from harvesting, vats and containers of a variety of shapes and sizes – including towering amphora-shaped in porcelain, commissioned by the Chateau from Limoges – and barrel upon barrel of wine waiting its turn to fill a bottle. A tasting, of course, followed. All very good value for around £20.
I channelled my inner Robbie Williams at an open-air karaoke that night, and watched and listened to the audience singing along to French songs I didn’t know. A trio of 30-something German girls banged out ‘Super Trouper’ with well-rehearsed moves.
I looked forward to more cycling, beach days, swimming, al fresco dining – and further enjoying the escape from the daily grind.
A Naturist holiday is one of the most peaceful and relaxing you can enjoy. And here at CHM, as with many such places, you feel totally immersed in the green surroundings and natural environment.
Aperitifs are offered by neighbours – and easily accepted. Stars at night appear like glitter scattered across a black cloth above the silhouettes of the pines and the only sound is the crash of the waves on the beach.
Best of all, the presence of like-minded, easy-going, nonjudgmental people who have discovered a wonderful way to bring intense joy into their lives – whatever the world might say about ‘private parts’ – allows you to recharge your batteries like never before.
Andrew Welch is a spokesman for British Naturism (bn.org.uk), which runs a variety of events throughout the year, indoors and outdoors.